Gaussian 09w 64 bit download. Can someone guide me through the Gaussian 09 installation on Linux operating system (Linux OS)? I want to install Linux09 on Linux operating system. 8 answers added.
Your Yashica Electro 35 GX is designed to deliver perfect exposures automatically under all light conditions, from candlelight to the glaring light of snow or beach scenes with ASA film speeds up to 200.
I have a Yashica Electro 35 GX, which in general seems to work fine (it actually takes quite nice pictures), but the glass cover for the viewfinder/rangefinder has come loose (see attached picture). I have found some advice on repairing cameras of the Yashica Electro 35 series (of which the GX seems to be?), for example from or this, but they mainly seem to be concerned with much more severe problems requiring disassembly of the camera. Hence, my questions are: • Should I be very worried about this glass piece being loose? (If it ain't that broke, don't fix it?) • How bad an idea would it be to just try to re-attach the glass piece with some super glue? • If I should fix it and fixing it requires disassembly, I don't think I should do it by myself (disassembly won't be a problem, but reassembly will definitely be.). So, can anyone recommend someone in Switzerland who is up to such a task? Thanks again for any help!
I'm not sure what is involved in taking the top off your camera, but you might try turning it on its end side and slapping it into the palm of your hand in the hope that piece might slip back into place. I would then secure it w/ some dabs of glue around the perimeter, and wipe it off quickly around the edges w/ a rag before it dries. If it doesn't want to slide back into place even w/ a little gentle prodding (sometimes sticking a piece of tape on it w/ some of the tape sticking up will allow you to reposition it by grasping the tape rather than the fragile glass edges), you are either going to have to take the top off to glue it back properly, or leave it be and put some clear tape around the furthermost edges to make sure it doesn't slide any further.
If you’re here, you already know that the Yashica Electro is one of the best picture-takers your lunch money can buy. You also know that they’re as common as they are inexpensive, and that they are as likely as not to have at least one age-related problem or another, so pick up a couple while you’re at it — one for parts, one for pictures.
On this page I’ll run through a partial teardown so you can see how to get to the likeliest trouble spots, and describe how I fixed them on mine. Light seal replacement is detailed on. Let’s get started! Getting Started Materials needed: a well lighted area, I also recommend a tray to work in or at least a paper towel to work on, jeweler’s screwdrivers, spanners, cotton swabs, Windex.
Possible other materials, depending on what you’re doing: small gauge wire, solder & soldering iron, needle files, black felt or foam, vinegar. Also good to have a lens brush and tissues for cleaning the glass when everything else is done. First Steps – Top Removal At the very least you’ll want to get in and clean the rangefinder glass. The Electro’s weak spot is a dim rangefinder. The lines are bright and the frame auto-adjusts for parallax, but the field itself is a bit dark, and if its cloudy or dirty it’s just not happening. First, remove the three silver crosspoint screws from the top — there are two on the sides and one on the back under the battery check button. Then get your point spanner out and remove the winder by turning the top counterclockwise.
(Shown – sharpened hobby tweezers.) There are a couple other washers and things under it, take them all off and set them aside in a little pile in the orientation in which they came off. Next, let’s take off the ASA dial. First, set the ASA to 100 for reference, then use a point spanner to remove the center screw. Once that’s out the whole dial lifts off. The dial itself uses a hole and pin for indexing, but the printed wheel is free-spinning. Note the little hole that you can hold with a toothpick or dental pick when you’re putting the screw back, so you can keep it indexed while you tighten the screw.
Gaussian 09w 64 bit download. Can someone guide me through the Gaussian 09 installation on Linux operating system (Linux OS)? I want to install Linux09 on Linux operating system. 8 answers added.
Your Yashica Electro 35 GX is designed to deliver perfect exposures automatically under all light conditions, from candlelight to the glaring light of snow or beach scenes with ASA film speeds up to 200.
I have a Yashica Electro 35 GX, which in general seems to work fine (it actually takes quite nice pictures), but the glass cover for the viewfinder/rangefinder has come loose (see attached picture). I have found some advice on repairing cameras of the Yashica Electro 35 series (of which the GX seems to be?), for example from or this, but they mainly seem to be concerned with much more severe problems requiring disassembly of the camera. Hence, my questions are: • Should I be very worried about this glass piece being loose? (If it ain't that broke, don't fix it?) • How bad an idea would it be to just try to re-attach the glass piece with some super glue? • If I should fix it and fixing it requires disassembly, I don't think I should do it by myself (disassembly won't be a problem, but reassembly will definitely be.). So, can anyone recommend someone in Switzerland who is up to such a task? Thanks again for any help!
I'm not sure what is involved in taking the top off your camera, but you might try turning it on its end side and slapping it into the palm of your hand in the hope that piece might slip back into place. I would then secure it w/ some dabs of glue around the perimeter, and wipe it off quickly around the edges w/ a rag before it dries. If it doesn't want to slide back into place even w/ a little gentle prodding (sometimes sticking a piece of tape on it w/ some of the tape sticking up will allow you to reposition it by grasping the tape rather than the fragile glass edges), you are either going to have to take the top off to glue it back properly, or leave it be and put some clear tape around the furthermost edges to make sure it doesn't slide any further.
If you’re here, you already know that the Yashica Electro is one of the best picture-takers your lunch money can buy. You also know that they’re as common as they are inexpensive, and that they are as likely as not to have at least one age-related problem or another, so pick up a couple while you’re at it — one for parts, one for pictures.
On this page I’ll run through a partial teardown so you can see how to get to the likeliest trouble spots, and describe how I fixed them on mine. Light seal replacement is detailed on. Let’s get started! Getting Started Materials needed: a well lighted area, I also recommend a tray to work in or at least a paper towel to work on, jeweler’s screwdrivers, spanners, cotton swabs, Windex.
Possible other materials, depending on what you’re doing: small gauge wire, solder & soldering iron, needle files, black felt or foam, vinegar. Also good to have a lens brush and tissues for cleaning the glass when everything else is done. First Steps – Top Removal At the very least you’ll want to get in and clean the rangefinder glass. The Electro’s weak spot is a dim rangefinder. The lines are bright and the frame auto-adjusts for parallax, but the field itself is a bit dark, and if its cloudy or dirty it’s just not happening. First, remove the three silver crosspoint screws from the top — there are two on the sides and one on the back under the battery check button. Then get your point spanner out and remove the winder by turning the top counterclockwise.
(Shown – sharpened hobby tweezers.) There are a couple other washers and things under it, take them all off and set them aside in a little pile in the orientation in which they came off. Next, let’s take off the ASA dial. First, set the ASA to 100 for reference, then use a point spanner to remove the center screw. Once that’s out the whole dial lifts off. The dial itself uses a hole and pin for indexing, but the printed wheel is free-spinning. Note the little hole that you can hold with a toothpick or dental pick when you’re putting the screw back, so you can keep it indexed while you tighten the screw.